Stobo Kirk

Home to one of the Tweed Valley’s oldest legends, the atmospheric Stobo Kirk is a place of pilgrimage for many

Sitting at roughly the half-way point of the John Buchan Way – the trail passes close by – Stobo Kirk is one of the oldest standing churches in Scotland, with origins that date to the late 500s when it was said to have been founded by Saint Mungo. 

And as with much of the surrounding area, this fine old church is often associated with Merlin, the wizard of Arthurian legend. The story has it that this wild man of the woods was converted to Christianity by Saint Mungo at the ‘alterstone’ close to the nearby village of Drumelzier. It is an event depicted in a stained-glass window at Stobo Kirk. 

The story also goes that Merlin – one of two historical figures later combined to form the figure we think of today – died his ‘three deaths’ in the area, having prophesised his own demise through falling, drowning and stabbing. He is reputedly buried just outside Drumelzier, with the spot marked by a thorn tree. 

Unlike many ancient Scottish churches, Stobo Kirk survived the Reformation, though the ‘jougs’, a metal neck collar attached to the wall by a chain and used as an instrument of punishment for those contravening the rules of the Kirk, demonstrate a firm approach to discipline in the post Reformation church.

Have a wander around this lovely old church. Its interior, especially the nave and chancel are beautiful. You could even combine it with walking a section of the John Buchan Way, either west over some wild hills to Broughton or east to Peebles. 

Stobo is also a stone’s throw from Dawyck Botanic Garden, where the Scrape Burn, which features as a hiding spot for the eponymous character in John Buchan’s John Burnet of Barns, now fuels a hydro scheme that provides electricity for the garden’s visitor centre. 

Alongside the trees and plants, there is history, art and culture to discover at Dawyck. The gardens are home to permanent sculptures and creative treasures including a chainsaw carving of a First Nations figure by champion woodcarver, Peter Bowsher – a nod to Dawyck’s strong connections with North America.

Contemporary writing

Nearby Lyne and Manor both feature in Restless, an espionage novel by acclaimed author and screenwriter William Boyd. Published in 2006, and winner of the Costa Novel Award, the book tells the story of a young woman who discovers that her mother was recruited as a British spy during the Second World War. It was later made into a major two-part series by the BBC.

Further info

For those looking for a different kind of adventure, Stobo also marks the start of the Tweed Valley Canoe Trail – a 30-mile route along the River Tweed which begins just over the road at Easter Dawyck Farm. The Stobo to Peebles section is an especially scenic stretch, peppered with historic bridges, a handsome viaduct and a castle perched high above the river.

Image credits: Stewart Wilson (Tweed Valley Blogger); Dawyck Botanic Garden